Let’s face it, comic book grading scales can feel like reading fine print on a used car warranty. Slight spine tick? Color break? Is 9.6 that different from 9.8? (Spoiler: Yes. And it might cost you a weekend’s worth of nasi lemak.) I learned that the hard way after paying for a CGC submission only to discover that a tiny printing defect dropped my grade. Painful.
But you know what? Understanding grading is essential if you want to grow as a collector, especially if you plan to buy, sell, or invest in comics. This beginner-friendly guide breaks it all down.
Comic Book Grading Scales: What They Are and Why They Matter
Comic book grading scales provide a standardized way to describe the condition of a comic. The most widely used system ranges from 0.5 (Poor) to 10.0 (Gem Mint). It was popularized by Overstreet and later adopted and refined by professional grading companies like CGC (Certified Guaranty Company), CBCS, and PGX.
The better the grade, the higher the market value, especially for key issues.
The Comic Grading Scale Chart
Here’s a simplified comic book grading scales chart to help you understand what each grade really means:
Grade | Term | Description |
---|---|---|
10.0 | Gem Mint | Perfect. Practically never seen. |
9.8 | Near Mint/Mint | Almost flawless. Sharp corners, clean surface. |
9.6 | Near Mint+ | One or two minor defects (tiny spine tick, light rub). |
9.4 | Near Mint | Minimal wear. Clean and flat. |
9.2 | NM- | Slight handling. Still looks amazing. |
8.0 | VF | Light wear visible. Might have tiny creases. |
6.0 | FN | Noticeable wear. Some color fading, spine stress. |
4.0 | VG | Well-read but intact. Small tears or folds possible. |
2.0 | G | Heavy wear. Still complete. |
0.5 | Poor | Water damage, missing chunks, taped spine… it’s seen things. |
Real-World Defects: What Each Grade Actually Looks Like
A single staple tear, fold, or a slight discoloration could be the difference between a $30 and $300 price tag.
- 9.8: Might have a microscopic bindery flaw, but otherwise flawless.
- 9.4: One tiny color-breaking spine tick, maybe a light fingerprint.
- 8.0: Small spine stress lines, minor corner blunting.
- 6.0: A faint water ripple, or light spine roll.
- 4.0 and below: Creases, foxing, writing on cover, detached staples.
Never assume it’s a 9.8 just because it “looks good.” You’ll cry later.
Raw Comics vs Graded Comics: When It Really Matters
Raw comics are ungraded and come as-is. Graded comics are professionally encapsulated (“slabbed”) and given a numeric score based on established Comic Book Grading Scales.
A 9.8 slabbed key issue can sell for triple or more the price of its raw twin.
Pros of Grading:
- Verified condition for resale
- Boosts perceived and actual value
- Long-term protection (tamper-proof casing)
Cons of Grading:
- Costs money (about $20–$50 per book, plus shipping)
- You can’t read the comic anymore (unless you crack the slab!)
Real talk? Not every comic is worth grading. Don’t slab your copy of X-Men #242 just because it’s shiny.

CGC vs CBCS vs PGX: Who’s Who in Grading?
Grader | Known For | Notes |
CGC | Market leader | Most trusted, highest resale value |
CBCS | Signature verification | Respected, often cheaper grading fees |
PGX | Budget option | Mixed reputation, resale is lower |
If you’re just starting out, CGC is the gold standard, but CBCS is no slouch, especially if you care about verified signatures. However, I don’t have any experience with PGIX, can’t comment much.
Should You Grade Your Comics?
It depends. Grading makes sense if:
- The comic is rare or a key issue
- You plan to sell or invest
- You want to protect and display it long-term
Skip grading if:
- It’s worth less than $100 (unless sentimental)
- It’s easily replaceable
- You prefer reading it freely
I once graded a $60 Wolverine variant. It came back a 9.4. Still worth… about $60. You live, you learn.
However, my copy of Proctor Valley Road #1 Momoko Virgin Variant, the Comics Price Guide lists the 9.8 graded price as US$122 while the price for raw is US$54. Take note that CLZ didn’t list this at all. Not sure why.
You lose some, you win some.

What to Do Before You Submit for Grading
- Inspect your comic under good light, check spine, corners, and surface
- Bag & board it properly (preferably Mylar)
- Store flat in a short box to avoid warping
Some collectors use pressing services to remove minor creases or folds before grading. But that’s a whole other article.
Also read: Comic Book Preservation Hacks for New Collectors
FAQs: Comic Grading, Simplified
Q: What is a CGC 9.8 comic worth?
A: Depends on the title, but usually double to triple the value of a raw copy.
Q: Is grading worth it for modern comics?
A: Only for high-value variants, key issues, or investment purposes.
Q: Can I grade comics myself?
A: You can estimate that, by now, you would already understand the basics of comic book grading scales, but only CGC, CBCS, or PGX can officially grade.
Q: Does grading guarantee value?
A: Nope. It helps, but demand, rarity, and timing matter too.
Q: What’s the grading turnaround time?
A: CGC typically takes 4–12 weeks, depending on tier.
Understanding comic book grading scales is your next step toward becoming a serious collector. You don’t need to grade everything. You don’t need to chase 10.0 unicorns. But knowing what those numbers mean? That’s power.
And if nothing else, it’ll help you avoid paying top dollar for a comic that’s secretly been rolled into someone’s back pocket.
Reads: The Beginner’s Guide to Comic Collecting. It all starts in that article.
Up next in the series: When to Grade Comics: The Essential Guide for New Collectors